Waking from a three-hour nap, I blinked against the sunlight. Outside my car window, a panoramic vista stretched,hinting at the grandeur of the day ahead. But as my gaze fell to the dashboard clock – 11:50 PM – a different thought surfaced. I closed my eyes again, bracing myself; I knew uncovering the mystery of Speelwijk Fortress would mean facing a scorching, unforgiving sun.
Traces of the Fort in Old Banten
On 18 May 2025, I first stepped into Speelwijk Fortress, a magnificent cultural heritage from the Dutch colonial period with a deeply etched history. With awe, I gazed upon its sturdy stone and brick walls, which for centuries had guardedthemselves against the erosion of time, still towering 8 to 10 meters high. The grandeur of the past radiated from every corner, whispering how beautiful Speelwijk Fortress must have been when it was still fulfilling its original purpose,when bullets and cannons were its daily harmony. That beauty, now only graspable in my imagination, left a profound sense of solemnity echoing through the ruins.
The fortress was laced with quiet hallways and hidden chambers, many of which remained inaccessible. Yet, one space immediately captivated me—its intricate patterns and the way light fell within it, visible only from above, hinted at an extraordinary, hidden beauty. Driven by curiosity about this veiled aesthetic, I searched for an entrance. Regrettably, stone and brick had entirely sealed off the access, as if preserving an eternal secret. A wave of disappointment washedover me; this room, with its profound beauty, would be a phenomenal photo spot, a powerful draw for beauty-seekers, if it were only open to the public.
Speelwijk Fortress is a silent witness, a colossal structure from the VOC era located in the heart of the Banten Sultanate. It was named in honor of VOC Governor-General Cornelis Jansz Speelman (1681-1694). Designed by Hendrik Lucaszon Cardeel, the fortress stands firmly in a corner of Banten city, specifically in Kampung Pamarican, Banten, Kasemen District, Serang City, directly facing the sea.
From its imposing ruins, I try to grasp the echoes of the past that forged its presence. But beyond these echoes, this journey will delve into every architectural detail that forms its character, exploring how the people of Banten today view and embrace this enduring historical legacy. It’s a journey not just about stone and brick, but about spirit, history and wisdom that transcends time.
Footsteps of the Rulers: The Long History of Speelwijk Fort
The impressive Fort Speelwijk, a truly magnificent defensive structure, arose in Banten. Yet, its very construction was tragically tied to the painful family conflict that tore apart the Banten Sultanate. During this turbulent period, the Dutch, ever cunning, made a calculated move: they approached Sultan Abu Nasr Abdul Kahhar, better known as Sultan Haji.He was the son of Sultan Ageng Tirtayasa, a respected figure renowned for his staunch anti-Dutch stance. This principle stood in stark contrast to his son, who appeared far more open to foreign influence. This critical difference in attitude created the perfect opening for the Dutch to firmly establish their power in the region.
Initially, this fort seemed to embody the Banten Sultanate’s last hope for defense – a fortress designed to be impenetrable to Western invaders. However, the bitter irony soon unfolded: the Dutch actually managed to enter Banten, not by breaching the fort, but thanks to intelligence provided by Sultan Haji himself, by marching overland from Batavia (now Jakarta). It’s a harsh reminder of how political betrayal can fundamentally alter a nation’s fate.
As time progressed, Fort Speelwijk transformed. It ceased to be a symbol of Bantenese resistance and instead became a stark monument to Dutch colonial power during Sultan Haji’s reign. This “cooperation” proved immensely beneficial to the Dutch. From 1685 to 1686, they continuously strengthened and repaired the fort, simultaneously expanding their dominance across Banten. Fort Speelwijk thus marked the crucial beginning of the VOC’s trade monopoly in the area.
The Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie (VOC) or Dutch East India Company, was an economic powerhouse. Established in 1602, this Dutch trading company held immense sway across Indonesia throughout the 17th and 18th centuries. Granted extraordinary privileges by the Dutch government, the VOC not only held a trade monopoly but alsohad the authority to raise armies and sign treaties with local rulers – effectively operating as a state within a state.
However, the relentless current of history flows onward. When Banten’s political and security situation began to deteriorate, particularly during the era of Governor-General Daendels, Fort Speelwijk, once so formidable, was finallyevacuated. It was a poignant end for a fort that had silently witnessed the ebb and flow of power, layers of betrayal, and the enduring struggles in the land of Banten.
Speelwijk Architecture: A Fusion of European Fortresses in Tropical Land
My footsteps echoed through every corner of Fort Speelwijk, as if I were instinctively seeking out whispers from the past. Chance then led me behind the main fort structure, where a small building immediately drew my eye. My curiosity deepened until a woman’s calm voice, fishing with her child by the riverbank, gently broke the silence. “There’s a Dutchgraveyard back there,” she offered kindly, pointing the way.
Without a second thought, I headed toward the area known as “Kerkhoff.” In Dutch, “Kerkhoff” simply means “churchyard” or “graveyard”—a common term for the final resting place of Dutch individuals who had died in the Nusantara (the Indonesian archipelago).
One by one, I examined the weathered gravestones in the Kerkhoff, each appearing to hold a story from a distant era. My gaze soon settled on a distinct tombstone, standing apart from the others. It wasn’t merely a plaque, but a carved stone wall etched with a name that uniquely captured my attention.
“Hugo Peter Faure?” I murmured the name aloud, slowly. It was a beautiful name, one that sounded commanding, for aman laid to rest so far from his homeland. My intrigue spurred me to learn more. Through my research, a significanttruth emerged: Hugo Peter Faure was no ordinary person, but a Commander-in-Chief during the Dutch colonial period.Standing before his tombstone, I could almost sense the echoes of his past commands and the distant roar of battles heonce led. It left me with a profound, poignant feeling—a powerful life, ultimately ending in quiet solitude here on the land of Banten.
Remnants of Speelwijk Fort’s chapel a silent witness to colonial devotion (Taken by Gendisya AP).
My thoughts drift back to the Kerkhoff, specifically to a small, unassuming building standing near the cemetery’s entrance. With just a single room, this structure still emanates a powerful, sacred aura. I believe it once served as a private chapel during the Dutch colonial era—a quiet sanctuary for those seeking to kneel in prayer.
Though now reduced to ancient ruins with a lone door and two empty window frames, I could still profoundly feel its spiritual vibrations. In its prime, this must have been a deeply personal refuge, a place where the connection between God and His worshippers was intimately forged in silence. Here, far from the world’s clamor, sorrow and hope were poured out. This little chapel, though silent now, continues to whisper stories of profound faith in a foreign land.
Located east of Fort Speelwijk, this Kerkhoff is far more than an ordinary graveyard. It stands as a silent testament to those who once served in the fort’s vicinity. Among the moss-covered, ancient tombstones, names are etched, each whispering a story: Jacob Wits, a tax and purchasing officer who died on March 9, 1769; Catharina Maria van Doorn, a lieutenant’s wife who passed away at a tragically young age on December 8, 1769 (born April 30, 1747); Maria Susana Ascher, wife of Thomas Schipers, also a tax and purchasing officer, who died on July 6, 1743; and, of course, Commander Hugo Peter Faure (1717 – 1763), whose life ended so far from his ancestral land.
Each name, every inscribed date, forms a silent thread of tales—of lives once vibrant within these fort walls, of destinies that ultimately led them to their final rest, so far from home.
After exploring the quiet stories nestled in the Kerkhoff, my steps led me back into the embrace of Fort Speelwijk. This time, my mission was to capture every inch of its enduring beauty through my camera lens. I observed the fort anew,picturing its days of strength with the main gate facing north, as if poised to welcome ships from the open sea.
My eyes were particularly drawn to the bastion on the west side, an architectural marvel still guarding its secrets. Below it, a hidden basement room once served as a vital warehouse for weapons and gunpowder—a space still heavy with the echoes of war preparations. At its peak, a looming watchtower offered panoramic views, where guards meticulously monitored every distant movement on the horizon.
Though now largely weathered ruins, my imagination soared, vividly picturing the past’s vibrant hustle and bustle. In itsheyday, this fort was a self-contained hub: home to the commander, housing administrative offices that managed all daily affairs, and even a small church that silently bore witness to its inhabitants’ prayers. Countless other buildings once stood proudly here, each with its own narrative, forming a complex that was not only magnificent but truly bursting with life.
Standing amidst the ruins, I could truly sense the immense grandeur of Fort Speelwijk’s architecture. It was, indeed,meticulously designed to counter threats from Sultan Ageng Tirtayasa’s loyalists and to exert control over the Banten Sultanate. Every intricate detail seemed to whisper tales of past military strategies. The towering structures were more than just piles of stone; they were formidable defensive walls, engineered to withstand any assault.
Around the fort, the river flowed serenely, forming a natural, impassable moat that significantly amplified its defensive strength. This was clearly no ordinary waterway, but an integral component of a meticulously planned security system.
Considering all these elements, I can confidently assert that Fort Speelwijk was conceived with extraordinary precision. Every angle, every vantage point, every flow of water—all stand as undeniable proof of its architectural ingenuity,creating a fortress that was not only magnificent but, in its era, truly impregnable.
Wisdom that Colors History: Interaction of Banten Community with the Fortress
Today, Fort Speelwijk transcends mere history. It has beautifully transformed from a silent observer of the past into avibrant stage for community joy. Here, the rich aroma of centuries-old history now harmoniously blends with the sounds of laughter and bustling activity.
The fort area, which might once have exuded a somber quiet, now pulsates with the energy of vendors. The enticing smells of local food and refreshing drinks mingle with the sight of colorful, captivating toys. Beyond traditional offerings, innovation also sparks the atmosphere: electric bike and toy car rentals invite visitors to explore every corner of the historic grounds in a truly fun and engaging way.
Around Fort Speelwijk, what was once a sturdy defensive moat has now become a serene river. Its waters no longer flow solely to secure the fort; instead, they’ve been beautifully transformed into a lifeline for the surrounding community.
Along its tranquil banks, anglers patiently cast their lines, hoping for nature’s bounty. The air often fills with laughter and the lively splashes of water as children and friends swim, joyfully sharing moments under the sun. This river is far more than just a geographical feature; it has become a true nexus of togetherness, where new stories are woven into the current, and happy laughter endlessly echoes.
Within the sturdy embrace of Fort Speelwijk, amidst its towering ruins, the joyful laughter of children now echoes. The expansive field at the fort’s heart, which might once have served as a solemn parade ground or a strategic war formation area, has now vibrantly transformed into an impromptu soccer arena. The rhythmic roll of the ball and the enthusiastic cheers of the kids have become a new melody, breathing life into every corner that was once silent.
Beyond daily play, the grandeur of this fort also serves as a crucial stage for celebrations of national pride. Each year, this very same field becomes a living witness to the vibrant festivities of Indonesia’s Independence Day. Here, under the same sky that once covered the fighters of the past, the spirit of unity and the sheer joy of freedom brilliantly radiate. It’sa profound and poignant truth: historical legacies now beautifully coexist with the happiness and hopeful spirit of the present generation.
Weaving the Threads of the Past: Speelwijk, an Eternal Heritage for the Future
Fort Speelwijk, once a colonial Dutch defensive stronghold, faced a period of neglect after its abandonment during the Daendels administration. For a long time, the fort lay forgotten, a silent relic of the past.
However, it has since undergone a remarkable transformation, evolving into a lively community recreation spot. With its ancient structures still standing tall, the fort now serves as a dynamic space for public enjoyment. Its expansive grounds, once perhaps a parade ground, now host impromptu soccer matches, echoing with the cheers of local kids. The historic walls also provide a unique backdrop for photography enthusiasts and offer an immersive site for those keen to learn about history.
Beyond the fort’s formidable walls, the surrounding area thrives with activity. Visitors can rent electric bikes to explore the vicinity or enjoy peaceful fishing along the serene river, which once served as the fort’s defensive moat. FortSpeelwijk truly embodies a beautiful shift, where historical legacy seamlessly blends with contemporary community life and leisure.
From every weathered stone and haunting ruin of Fort Speelwijk, we can glean invaluable lessons about the history of power and the intricate dynamics of civilization. This fort is far more than a mere physical relic; it’s a profoundreflection of complex past politics, where alliances and intrigues relentlessly altered the course of history.
It stands as a stark testament to how foreign influence could establish dominance, often by exploiting internal conflicts, powerfully reminding us of the enduring importance of unity and national sovereignty. Moreover, the fort’s very existence teaches us about the cyclical nature of power: there are periods of glory, and there are inevitable periods ofdecline, demonstrating that no authority, no empire, is eternal.
From these compelling ruins, we are invited to deeply reflect on the consequences of every historical decision—whether they propelled progress or brought about destruction. Fort Speelwijk truly whispers the vital importance of understanding the past, so we may forge a wiser future.
Ultimately, Fort Speelwijk is far more than just a collection of lifeless old stones; it stands as a timeless mirror, reflecting the enduring ebb and flow of civilization. From its evocative ruins, we are invited not merely to remember thepast, but to deeply ponder the vital importance of preserving every historical trace—for it serves as our most profound teacher.
Indeed, in every intricate stone carving and every whisper of wind sweeping through the fort’s ancient remains, lie invaluable lessons. These lessons continue to shape our collective identity and thoughtfully guide our steps into the future. Let us, therefore, cherish and protect this profound heritage, ensuring its powerful story remains timeless and continues to inspire generations to come.
